Set the Scene
In case you haven’t heard, here it goes: the Upper East Side is now the hippest neighborhood in New York. This traditionally staid part of town is where the chic crowd shops at high-end stores. They also come to dine at the new and buzzy restaurants that have brought soul and zhush to what was once a barren culinary landscape. Cafe Commerce is part of this exclusive clutch.
Led by Chef Harold Moore, who has had a string of high-profile cooking gigs and run other successful restaurants in the city, it has just 40 seats and feels more like an intimate private club where everyone wants to belong- and they can. The decor leans Art Deco, and a mural by the prolific artist David Joel from the original Commerce downtown anchors the room. The setting is inviting and envelops you in warmth the moment you step in the door.
What’s the Food Like
The cuisine is New American, with strong French influences. Dishes such as sea scallops with leeks, mushrooms, and escargot butter; braised rabbit pappardelle with bacon, olives, and sage; and the towering pavlova for dessert capture this spirit. Then there are comfort staples: a chicken noodle soup I’d eat any day of the week, even in the summer; a roast chicken for two; and the best cheeseburger you can find uptown.
Desserts include a thick slab of Moore’s legendary coconut cake with multiple layers of cream cheese frosting, and a yellow birthday cake with chocolate frosting and sprinkles.
Cafe Commerce is also a fashionable place for lunch, where figure watching salads like the 20-herb with lemon vinaigrette are hearty and crave-able. Everything I tried was better than solid and has me waiting to go back for more.
Let’s Talk About the Drinks
Sophisticated cocktails like the agave stinger with tequila, agave, blood orange, and lime should be the opener to any visit. There’s an extensive list of spirits- vodkas, whiskies, tequilas, and the like. The wine list is diverse, and the by-the-glass list features pricey picks that I don’t typically see for single pours- a crisp, mineral-y Domaine Fauveley Chardonnay from Burgundy is a perfect example.
Final Thoughts
Cafe Commerce is the type of place where you can eat every day or celebrate special occasions. It’s where you want to go with friends, for date nights, or to impress your family when they’re visiting from out of town. The talk among the who's who is that it’s not easy to get in, no surprise given the limited number of seats. But please, try, and then try again. You’ll eventually get that table and be happy you went.
Fast Facts
Location: Upper East Side, NYC
Cuisine: New American cuisine with French and Italian influences
Pricing: $$$
Takes Reservations: Yes – Resy
Our Favorite Dishes on the Menu: 20 herb salad, marinated hamachi, Commerce cheeseburger, charred salmon
Hours: From 11:45 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Sunday
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