Hotel Snapshot
Castle ruins dotted along winding roads, rolling moors, some of the best beaches in the country, and bunting-strewn towns- as a Londoner, it’s safe to say I was captivated by the magic and mystery of Northumberland. Easy to reach by train from London, the region is one of the few dark sky reserves in the UK and offers easy access to several standout filming locations. Harry Potter fans like myself will appreciate the short 10-minute drive to Alnwick Castle, where the famous Philosopher’s Stone flying lesson scenes were filmed, or the 20-minute drive to Bamburgh Castle, which inspired The Last Kingdom.
But charm doesn’t just shine through in its tempestuous history and beautiful landscapes. As soon as I arrived, I was greeted by the chatter and smiles of strangers- somewhat of a rarity in London. That same warmth carried into the taxi, where my driver shared local stories and let out an approving “ooo” as we turned onto a narrow, tree-lined road leading to the Tempus Hotel at Charlton Hall Estate.
Design & Character
Driving by fields of sheep, a glassy lake, and winding pathways, I realized the magic of staying here is really the tranquility of being surrounded by nature- an entire Estate to explore. Once home to the Thorp family from 1878 to 2017, the estate was acquired by Richard Shell, who turned it into a wedding venue and later expanded with the addition of the Tempus hotel. True to Northumberland’s character, traces of history linger in the original stone, slate, and timber of the estate’s former farm buildings- now brought to life with contemporary flair throughout the hotel, thanks to the brilliant Jo Aynsley of Jeffreys Interiors.
Colourful interiors are a stark contrast to the muted brick of the main building- the perfect medley of fantasy and bold prints. The reception features a striking truss roof and a large flowering tree sat atop a vibrant orange couch. In keeping with the element of surprise, a large tipi sits just outside. Donned in twinkle lights and cozy seating in the winter months, this space is filled with the smell of wood-fired pizzas, winter warmers, crackling fires, and a menu of seasonal drinks. The bar area is nestled under glittering disco balls and decorated with fuschia-print couches, emerald-green booths, and large topiaries, while the restaurant is bright with shades of peach and light pinks.
The Rooms
Spread across five buildings, the 52 rooms and suites are a mix of rustic and modern accommodations, including renovated cottages, new-builds, and lakeside cabins or yurts. I especially loved that no two rooms were the same- think striking patterns, whimsical wallpapers, soaking tubs, and surprising design elements at every turn. When I first laid eyes on my cottage room, the 'Holiday' came to mind- light blue shutters, an open fireplace, and a shared garden: the epitome of British coziness. While many of the rooms and suites embrace this quirky, homely style, others offer a more secluded experience. Tucked away from the main building, the yurts and lake cabins offer all the necessary amenities, beautiful lake views, and nothing but the sound of birds.
Food & Drink
Helmed by head chef Cheryl Radwell, the Orangery sits at the heart of the hotel, serving British favorites crafted from local ingredients- think monkfish pie, steamed Shetland mussels, rump of lamb, and beer-battered fish and chips- truly mouthwatering. For a taste of quintessential England, the restaurant also offers a classic Sunday roast and an afternoon tea not to be missed. Guided by an ethos of luxurious comfort and playful whimsy, the Orangery draws inspiration from Alice in Wonderland, creating a dining experience that feels both magical and indulgent- from the imaginative interiors to the beautifully presented dishes.
To say my time in Northumberland was anything short of enchanting would be a lie. I found charm, relaxation, an honest welcome from strangers, and a few too many sheep. The Tempus hotel felt like a home-away-from-home, and it’s safe to say I will be returning in the future.
Fast Facts
Location: Chathill, Northumberland, UK
Address: The Tempus, Charlton Hall Estate, Chathill NE67 5DZ, United Kingdom
The vibe: Quintessential British retreat with a quirky character. Come here to get away.
Room count: 52
Amenities & Neighborhood Recs: The hotel is located on acres of land, so bring some wellies if you want to explore the grounds. A filming location for Harry Potter, the infamous Alnwick Castle, is just a short 10-minute drive away. For Last Kingdom fans, Bamburgh Castle is only 20 minutes away, and the village is exceptionally cozy.
Starting rate: From about $163 a night
Dining: Elevated classic British with local ingredients
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