Set the Scene
Indian cuisine is having a moment in New York, with several out-of-town Michelin-pedigreed chefs setting up local outposts and bringing their touch of refinement to traditional dishes. Sujan Sarkar enters this scene with a remarkably different and inspired take, putting a contemporary spin on the diverse cuisines of the Indian subcontinent.
Sarkar, who first made his name here with the gastrobar Baar Baar in the East Village in 2017, earned a Michelin star with his Indian fine dining restaurant Indienne in Chicago. That spot redefined Indian cuisine in the modern context by reimagining traditional dishes with European techniques. Sarkar now builds on that vision at Indienne New York.
The restaurant itself sits inside the luxury residential tower Henry Hall just north of Hudson Yards in a repurposed apartment. The space makes for a sophisticated, yet warm atmosphere, with hard wood floors, coffered ceilings, sculptural glass chandeliers, and colorful Holi-inspired artwork by Chicago artist Ken Andjulis. A view into the open kitchen puts the culinary action on display.
What's The Food Like
Dinner is a nine-course tasting menu, with guests choosing between non-vegetarian ($195), vegetarian ($175), and vegan ($175) options. Some dishes have made their way from the original Indienne in Chicago, but they've been reworked for New York. The result is a progression that balances familiar Indian flavors with unexpected combinations and Instagramable presentation sure to gin up some FOMO.
The meal starts with whimsical interpretations of Indian street food, so much so that most only hint of the original inspiration.
Bhel, for instance, arrives as a disc resembling a mint Oreo rather than the traditional mishmash of puffed rice and crunchy, chick pea flour noodles spiced with chutneys. The mid courses showcase Sarkar's knack for layering spices and textures as much as creative ingredient pairings. Scallops are topped with caviar and a crispy potato mash while morels are presented in a white sauce (like a traditional Kashmiri yakhni) flavored with fresh peas and black truffles. And chicken makhani here is presented not as morsels in curry but as a single piece of breast, restuffed with a layer of spiced ground chicken under a crispy skin in a sauce with traditional flavors but with the texture of a silky bisque.
Desserts included an artful concoction in the convincing form of a strawberry with a sweet strawberry center served over lemon granita for some freshness, and an array of petits fours.
Let's Talk About The Drinks
The menu offers both a spirit-free and wine pairing. The wine list mixes classic labels with small-production wines.
The cocktail program is every bit as creative as the food, with a focus on sustainability and ingredients and byproducts from the kitchen that might otherwise go to waste. Vetiver is a bright take on a white Negroni with gin, Bitter Bianco, and yuzu, while Mango combines light and dark rum with saffron, yogurt, and cardamom in a rich milk punch. Coffee is the most unexpected of the bunch, an Old Fashioned-inspired drink made with whiskey, ghee, banana, and black garlic foam.
Final Thoughts
New York has no shortage of excellent Indian restaurants, but Indienne offers something different: an intimate, fine dining experience that puts Sarkar's progressive take on the cuisine front and center. With just 34 seats, ambitious nine-course menus, and an elegant setting, it's a destination for a special night out rather than your neighborhood Indian dinner.
Fast Facts
Location: Hudson Yards, NYC
Address: 515 West 38th Street, New
York, NY 10018
Cuisine: Progressive Indian
Price Point: $$$$
Takes Reservations: Yes, via
SevenRooms
Our Favorite Thing on the Menu: Chicken / Paneer Makhani
The Vibe: Intimate, elegant, and
contemporary
The Attire: Smart casual to dressy
New York City, New York, United States
