Set the Scene
Located inside a buzzy mini mall in Los Angeles’ Highland Park neighborhood, Wildcrust invites diners to imbibe on two outdoor patios and an interior with an old school trattoria meets sleek modernity feel that’s both intimate and welcoming. The space, formerly a 1940s auto body shop, was reimagined by designer Jared Frank, who took his inspiration from a vintage pistachio green Fiat with red leather seats.
The centerpiece of the restaurant, a communal table, offers the best seat in the house toward the open air kitchen. Chef Miles Okabayashi started Wildcrust with a series of pop ups around Los Angeles and in his mother’s backyard during the pandemic. Today, the République and Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Perry Street alum is joined by his business partners, brother Sam and sister-in-law Jean Okabayashi in this sleek new brick and mortar. Grab a seat on a crimson red banquette and watch the room buzz with diners who divvy up bubbling hot pies and other shareable plates.
What the Food is Like
At Wildcrust, pizza is Okabayashi’s central muse. Sourdough bread undergoes a 48-hour fermentation process that results in an airy, slightly tangy crust that cradles toppings like creamy fior di latte, a salty and sweet bacon onion jam, and a knockout combination of slow-braised lamb, house-made tzatziki, Calabrian chili, feta, mint, and sumac that unearths the best of Middle eastern meets Italian flavor. Other fire-cooked specialties on the menu include a Caesar salad with a healthy sprinkling of parmesan and brown butter crumbs, and honeynut squash bathed in date butter with an herbaceous crunch imparted by bits of sage and fried pepitas. Large format dishes highlight Okabayashi’s Japanese background and French training, including a pork belly with garlic miso and whole branzino that swims in a shitake beurre blanc that’s worthy of picking up a spoon for.
Let’s Talk About the Drinks
How sake pairs with umami rich foods is at the heart of Wildcrust’s best drink offerings. A Yamagata grown light bodied Junmai Daiginjo from Tatenokawa called Stream Red is a versatile choice that bursts with ripe fruits that fare well with any vegetable. If you order the branzino, the Mutsu Hassen Isaribi is a dry sake with a clean taste that compliments any seafood dish well. On the wine list, varietals from the Loire Valley, Italy, Portugal and Germany are available by the glass or bottle. A can’t miss red that pairs well with any pizza is La Spinetta’s Langhe Nebbiolo, ripe with notes of candied roses and blackberry that bring out the richness of marinara sauce.
Final Thoughts
Wildcrust makes the ubiquitous pastime of pizza eating exciting and fresh, with a menu that leans into satisfying both traditional and adventurous palates.
Fast Facts
Location: 4705 York Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90042
Cuisine: Italian
The Vibe: A sun-drenched pizzeria with a sleek modern interior and menu that’s far from pretentious.
Our Favorite Thing on the Menu: A lamb tzatziki pizza that offers the heat of Calabrian chili and mellowed notes of mint to create a well-balanced mashup of your favorite gyro– upgraded into pie form.
Pricing: $$
Reservation: Reservations can be made through Resy
Standout dishes: Lamb tzatziki pizza, branzino, Caesar salad
Attire: Casual
Hours: Open Tuesday through Sunday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m
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Los Angeles, California, United States
