Yorkshire is a grand old place. It was once the military seat of the Roman Empire on these islands, the former capital of Britannia Inferior, and perhaps, one of the most diverse counties on these old craggy rocks. Part of its charm lies in its local nooks, and in my case, the minuscule village of Byland. Set just on the outer smidges of the North York Moors National Park, the word rural best sums up this spot’s isolated and very pretty geography. Its beating heart is The Abbey Inn, a fine gastro pub with rooms wedged in between a medley of small houses, farms, and the remains of a Game of Thrones-esque 12th-century Abbey, dubbed one of the finest examples of early northern monastic architecture in the country.
It was for many years the town’s only headliner, that was until Yorkshire’s young superstar chef Tommy Banks moved in. Before he transformed this sleepy hollow into a destination foodie joint with boudoirs, he was best known as the UK’s youngest chef to nab a Michelin star at his family’s mothership joint, The Black Swan (in nearby Oldstead), at the ripe age of 24. Even before he took over the helm of this Grade II-Listed country inn, he used to wash the pots and pans here as a teen. What was it like? Nothing worth talking about, say the staff.
To give you an idea of how laidback and rural this joint actually is, I turned up when it wasn’t even open yet. I arrived pre-lunch service, and unbeknownst to me and my cab driver, the door to the place didn’t even swing open until 12. Did it matter? Of course not. Northern folk are so nice they let me in, made me a coffee (I should have had a Yorkshire brew), and sat me by a roaring fire. It was the epitome of a good old country life greeting. Around the fire, flagstone floors, wood panels, and arts and crafts from across the land set the tone of the pastoral aesthetic. Photographs of the farm—Tommy and cows included—flecked most of the walls, and atop cabinets and tables, curios and antiques completed the cozy look.
As for the rooms, they are just as cutesy. The three escapes—Abbot’s Retreat, Prior’s Lynn and Monk’s Rest—are all reached via their own separate entrance at the side of the pub, and all have been designed by Tommy’s mother, Anne. The odd family heirloom is in sight, as are collectibles sourced from all over. My gaff was Abbot’s Retreat, a stately space with full-on views of the neighbouring Abbey from its classy wood-panelled four-poster bed. All the curtains are locally woven, and there is an almost Brontë-esque feel thanks to a splashing of dried flowers and throws crafted in houses from all corners of Yorkshire. The bathroom, complete with its clawfoot tub and exceptionally well-lit vanities, are also a plus, along with the tasty date flapjacks in the minibar. In all, the room surpasses your average pub gaff with beds, and exceptionally so that it feels more like a small hotel.
But of course, the main reason to stay here is for the grub. Now, I am no food critic, but I do eat in a fair few hotels across the world, and my belly sometimes proves it. What I learned about my dear friend Tommy while I sat down for dinner reading his cookbook Roots, is that we are both the same age, were born the same month and that we have an intense fondness for all things butter. I was a fan of my Gemini brother, near instantly. Unlike his Michelin baby, the vibe here at the Abbey is far more relaxed. Think burger and pork fat chips. As is the drill with all these places, the word seasonal is paraded everywhere, but here it is genuine as most of the produce comes direct from the family farm in Oldstead. Portions are generous—my slab of venison was huge—and the veggies come loaded with flavour, especially the beets. My personal highlight was of course the butter, one loaded with St Andrews cheddar (I wanted to buy some, but they were sadly all out) and the other salt. Both were divine and served on warm crusty bread. Brekkie, served at the Black Swan—a 20 or so minute walk away or 5 min taxi ride—comes in the form of a pastry spread and fresh yoghurt with granola. The main event? A perfectly cooked English fry up that made me proud to be British.
Fast Facts
Location: Byland, Yorkshire, England
Address: The Abbey Inn, York YO61 4BD
The vibe: Destination foodie country pub minus the BS. Come here for good food, and even better butter.
Room Count: 3
What’s there to do? This is walking country, so bring some boots. The Abbey is well worth exploring come golden hour as are the glorious moors. Castle Howard, often regarded as one of the finest stately homes in England is a 20-minute drive away and is a must for die hard film and Bridgerton fans.
Starting Rate: From about 470 USD per night.
Dining: Classic British with no fuss thrills through local farms, dairies and veggie patches.
Amenities: Bar, restaurant
